How to Release Pressure in Screen Cooling System of Slash

Updated on November 20, 2018 in Hardware
7 on October 29, 2018

The LCD screen is at the highest level of the entire liquid cooling system. After the first few prints, the coolant heats up and may cause deformation of the LCD screen. If deformation takes place, please use the pressure release cap on the coolant tank to rebalance the pressure.



Tools Required


1. Standard Ruler


2. Feeler Gauge   



3. Wrench



1. For the user’s safety, please power off the printer before this operation!


2. Check the LCD every two weeks as advised.


1Put the printer on table and open the cover


2Check if the pressure is normal in the screen cooling system

If there is no gap between the ruler and the screen, it is NOT necessary to release the pressure.

If there is gap between the ruler and the screen, it is necessary to release the pressure.

3Put the printer sideways

Lay protections to prevent possible damage to the printer

4Remove the ties and push out the coolant tank

5Take off the coolant tank

Take off the coolant tank from the holder

6Remove the joint of the coolant tank to release the pressure

Prepare some tissue to wipe off the coolant which may spill out of the tank; do not keep any electronic device near the printer

7Squeeze the tube and tighten the joint

Tighten with suitable strength

Wipe clean the coolant tank and the tubes

8Put back the coolant tank to the holder

Press tight the holder as the arrows show in the picture; make sure they are centered and match each other effectively

9Put back the nylon ties

Fixate the holder with nylon ties

10 Put the printer upright

11The pressure in the screen cooling system has been normal

Test with feeler gauge and there is no gap


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1 on October 31, 2018

Are you kidding? Asking your customers to strip down their machine for a faulty design is just plain irresponsible. You need to do what other professional manufacturers do and issue a replacement part with a pressure release valve or recall the defective machine and replace the parts. 

on November 1, 2018

While I was unaware that this was a problem (maybe the pressure is a cause of leaks too)? I am grateful to Uniz for providing a solution. I agree that a pressure release valve would be a better solution for customers. Even an automatic one is doable.. I hope the above becomes a temporary fix and the valves are sent out! Now I have to order a feeler gauge and metal ruler as my build platform doesn’t want to print at the rear left corner… 😞

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0 on November 10, 2018

So.. I have followed the above procedure, here are the before and after shots. It looks better but not perfect. My question is that after loosing about 5ml of zOil will I need to replace the lost oil eventually after several fixes or will a vacume of air develop instead and so just release the air pressure as long as the reservoir has some oil? Before After

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3 on November 16, 2018

I have the same issue 🙁 And I thought the pressure releasing will be the solution to have nice flat display. So, do I have a chance to print without worries? Curvy display means no sticking at higher resolutions. Am I wrong? What to do now???

on November 17, 2018

I found that the above procedure wasn’t the full solution for me. I still had problems with a large print not sticking to the corners of the build platform. The solution was to set the z-axis using a sheet of standard A4 paper as appose to with the vat in place. This gave me a tighter fit to the LCD. After doing so I noticed that the first few layers in the centre of the build plate were squashed and were properly formed towards the corners backing up my theory that the LCD was still uneven including the build plate a little. Also I always use 0.01 layer height for the first three burn in layers to maximise adhesion to the build plate. Hope this helps! ☺

on November 19, 2018

Thats clever. But 0.1mm did you mean? Cause 0.01 is 10 microns and in this case you will have the non-sticking issue again. Am I right?

on November 20, 2018

I use 10 microns, with default LED power. This means thin layers will over cure and stick more solidly!

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